A COMPLETE GUIDE TO ESSENTIAL OILS FOR SKIN

IN ESSENCE...

• Renowned for their pleasant scents and various skin-nourishing properties, essential oils are popular ingredients in both traditional and commercial skincare.
• The benefits of essential oils for the skin arise from their complex chemical makeup, active constituents, and the synergy between them. These reputed benefits include having protective antioxidant properties, balancing or reducing skin oils, calming irritation, helping to preserve skin moisture, supporting skin barrier, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and many other desirable actions.
• A simple approach to optimizing a personal skincare regimen using essential oils is to select those with preferred properties based on one's skincare needs. They can then be diluted in a carrier oil or a mixture of carrier oils that are, once again, tailored to one's specific skin type. Alternatively, essential oils can be incorporated into DIY products or skincare treatments such as rejuvenating facial masks and scrubs.

THE HOLISTIC SKIN CARE BENEFITS OF ESSENTIAL OILS

Essential oils have been part and parcel of natural and holistic skincare for centuries. From the luxurious skin-softening properties of the Rose (used famously by Cleopatra to maintain her beauty) to the cleansing benefits of Myrrh used by ancient Roman soldiers going into battle, these potent oils harness a wide range of botanical properties to address practically every skincare need. Beyond this sheer natural variety – there are now approximately 2000 known plant species contributing to different essential oils! – perhaps the value of essential oils in cosmetics and skincare relate to their diverse benefits. Unlike synthetics, the impact of an essential oil can be far-reaching, relaxing our senses and supporting our physical and psychological well-being for a truly holistic sense of wellness. Another feature that lends these all-natural oils to enhanced skincare is that they are absorbed easily through the skin, thereby being very receptive to simple topical remedies and applications. Indeed, far from just being limited to herbalists, aromatherapists, and natural brands, even mainstream cosmetic companies have long adopted the use of essential oils, used widely in all sorts of products from premium perfumes to basic soaps.

In this guide, we will delve into some of the most common skin types and concerns, and address which essential oils are most suited for their specific skincare needs and why. We'll also discuss some of the most effective ways these oils can be incorporated into our day-to-day beauty regimens or DIY skincare products.

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO ESSENTIAL OILS FOR SKIN

Navigate to a specific skin type or ailment:

• Normal skin
• Dry skin
• Sensitive skin
• Mature skin - fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots
• Oily skin
• Acne
• Cellulite & skin sagging
• Skin discoloration, scars, & stretch marks

NORMAL SKIN

This relatively rare skin type is characterized by a state of harmony: the skin's oils are perfectly balanced, leading to a naturally radiant and healthy-looking complexion. Many of us may in fact have a combination skin type where the T-zone (the area covering the forehead and down the length of the nose) is the only region that is problematic, with the rest of the face aligning to a more normal skin type. Essential oils that have balancing actions will work best for this skin type as they will help maintain the skin's natural harmony and moisture levels.

DRY SKIN

The lack of sebum can lead to reduced hydration and increased water loss from the skin's surface (also known as transepidermal water loss or TEWL). As sebum can act as an occluding layer on the skin, dry skin can often lead to the compromising of the integrity of the skin barrier and will tend to get irritated more often than oilier skin types.

The other cause of dry skin could be dehydration (this is sometimes referred to as dehydrated skin). Essential oils that are very calming, soothing, and naturally moisturizing work best for this skin type. In addition, the use of harsh cosmetic ingredients or products such as high pH soap on the face should be avoided.

SENSITIVE SKIN

The term 'sensitive skin' is used to characterize a skin type that easily experiences irritations or inflammation. Sensitive skin is often distressed and feels uncomfortable, with associated symptoms such as burning, itching, flakiness, or rashes. Moreover, these individuals often cannot use conventional skincare products such as those with fragrances or dyes.

Dry skin can be one of the causes of sensitive skin. Other reasons include skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea, and dermatitis. The best essential oils for sensitive skin include those that are very gentle. 

Note: Some individuals with skin sensitivities do not react positively to any kinds of fragrances, including essential oils. A skin patch test should always be conducted prior to application, and very mild dilutions are strongly recommended at the beginning of any essential oil use.

MATURE SKIN - FINE LINES, WRINKLES, & AGE SPOTS

Aging is a natural process that can lead to a range of skin ailments and issues including fine lines, wrinkles, skin dryness, dullness, and skin laxity. Another common occurrence that is preventable, however, is that of premature aging, a phenomenon where the aging process is sped up in those who engage in unhealthy behaviors such as smoking or not wearing sunscreen. In both cases, the skin's youthful radiance can be restored by focusing on essential oils that are primarily rejuvenating, protective, and antioxidative in nature.

OILY SKIN

Oily skin is an issue that most commonly plagues younger age groups. It is characterized by the skin producing too much sebum, which can produce an overly shiny or greasy-looking complexion. The pores may also be more enlarged and visible. This skin type can be transformed through the use of cleansing and clarifying essential oils that help purify the skin. Furthermore, oils with astringent actions can also support in reducing any visible pores. An oily skin type that is well taken care of can prevent the development of acne that forms through the thriving of bacteria in oil- and dirt-clogged pores.

ACNE

Acne is a chronic yet common skin disease that appears most often as visible marks on the face, although body acne can occur too. The affliction often starts in adolescence and may continue in some individuals until their 30s or even 40s. Blemishes, blackheads, whiteheads, and pustules frequently appear in cases of acne, and the primary cause is what is known as a 'comedo'. This is when a pore or hair follicle becomes congested due to the buildup of skin cells, dirt, and oils. Thus, skincare routines for acne should involve the use of non-comedogenic skincare and makeup products that do not contribute to clogging. The same advice is applied to the use of carrier oils; an excellent non-comedogenic choice is Jojoba Oil.

Essential oils can be a natural way to support acne-prone skin. The oils with clarifying, cleansing, and balancing properties will tend to be the most useful. 

CELLULITE & SKIN SAGGING

Cellulite is a condition where the skin appears dimpled or has a characteristic rippling or 'wrinkly' texture that is often compared to that of cottage cheese. It commonly manifests in bodily areas such as the thighs, knees, and buttocks, and can affect individuals of all weights and sizes. Skin sagging, also known as 'loose skin', is usually a normal consequence of the aging process, but may also be experienced after major weight loss or pregnancy. Issues with skin laxity typically increase with age due to poorer blood circulation, which can impact on skin collagen synthesis.

While harmless, cellulite and skin sagging can be major cosmetic problems that can cause issues with one's self-confidence. Spice essential oils tend to be stimulating and can help detoxify and firm up skin texture and lead to a tighter appearance. Coupled with massage, other stimulating or rubefacient oils may also be used to ease the appearance of cellulite and skin sagging.

SKIN DISCOLORATION, SCARS, & STRETCH MARKS

Scarring or pigmentation issues on the skin can be due to external issues (e.g. a cut or an injury) or internal issues (e.g. a hormonal imbalance or pregnancy). Alleviating skin discoloration can often take time depending on the extent of impact to the skin's connective tissue and whether it is a young or relatively older scar. Essential oils with skin-regenerating qualities may support the improved appearance and texture of skin, with Lavender Oil being one of the oils most used by herbalists and aromatherapists. 

HOW TO USE ESSENTIAL OILS FOR SKIN

One of the easiest ways to incorporate essential oils into a skincare regimen is to dilute them in a carrier oil. Carrier oils are fixed oils extracted from various botanical sources such as kernels, seeds, nuts, and fruit pulp, that offer skin-beautifying benefits in addition to making concentrated essential oils safer to use for topical applications. Carrier oils can be blended according to their specific properties (e.g. comedogenic vs. non-comedogenic, fast-absorbing vs. slow-absorbing) and their nutrient profile. Similarly, blending complementary essential oils is thought to be one of the most effective ways to bring out their synergy and consequently their observed results. By mixing desired essential oils and carrier oils together, an easy, personalized, all-natural skincare solution can be made from scratch. A list of suggested blends can be found in the next section.

For a gentle facial serum that can be used in the daytime or at night, pour 30 mL (1 fl. oz. or roughly 2 tablespoons) of your desired carrier oil(s) into a small dropper bottle, followed by 6 drops of an essential oil or essential oil blend. Cap the bottle well before shaking thoroughly to blend all the ingredients. To use, apply 4 drops onto a freshly cleansed face and lightly massage until fully absorbed.

For a hydrating body oil, combine 60 mL (2 fl. oz. or roughly 4 tablespoons) of your desired carrier oil(s) into a bowl or small jar, followed by 24 drops of an essential oil or essential oil blend. Mix well and massage onto desired body areas after a shower or bath.

A DIY facial cleanser or mask are also excellent ways to benefit from essential oils in skincare. For a simple facial cleanser, add 60 mL (2 fl. oz.) of a desired Hydrosol or Floral Water into a cleanser dispenser, along with 30 mL (1 fl. oz.) of Aloe Vera Gel Juice, 30 mL (1 fl. oz.) of Vegetable Glycerin, and 3-5 drops of essential oils. Cap, shake, and use as needed for up to 10 days (the cleanser can be stored in the fridge). For a basic facial mask, combine 30 g (1 oz.) of a cosmetic clay of your choice with 1 teaspoon of a carrier oil, 2-3 drops of essential oil, and enough water to create a paste. Apply using a face brush and leave on for 5-10 minutes before rinsing off with lukewarm water.

SUGGESTED ESSENTIAL OIL BLEND RECIPES FOR SKIN

The following blends can be used to optimize a natural skincare regimen. The guidelines in the previous section can be used to easily make a DIY skincare treatment based on your needs.

For Dry Skin - soothes, hydrates, and helps keep dry skin soft and supple

• Chamomile Essential Oil - 5 drops
• Rose Geranium Essential Oil - 3 drops
• Rose Absolute - 1 drop

Carrier oil suggestions for dry skin: Sweet Almond Oil, Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Hemp Seed Oil

For Oily & Acne-Prone Skin - helps cleanse and regulate sebum levels

• Tea Tree Essential Oil - 5 drops
• Lavender Essential Oil - 5 drops
• Lemongrass Essential Oil - 2 drops
• Lemon Essential Oil - 2 drops

Carrier oil suggestions for oily skin: Jojoba Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil

For Mature Skin, Fine Lines, & Wrinkles - softens and smooths out wrinkles, naturally supports skin regeneration

• Palmarosa Essential Oil - 6 drops
• Rose Absolute - 2 drops
• Frankincense Essential Oil - 2 drops

Carrier oil suggestions for mature skin: Rosehip Oil, Olive Oil, Avocado Oil, Argan Oil

For Acne Scars, Dark Circles, & Other Pigmentation Issues - naturally brightens and evens out skin complexion over time

• Frankincense Essential Oil - 2 drops
• Ylang Ylang Essential Oil - 2 drops
• Lavender Essential Oil - 2 drops
• Turmeric Essential Oil - 1-2 drops

Carrier oil suggestions for scarring: Evening Primrose Oil, Rosehip Oil

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Interested in discovering some of the most powerful essential oils for hair? Check out our compilation here.

Learn how to make your own nourishing skincare blends in our beginner's guide to the theory and practice of essential oil blending here.

CAUTIONS & ESSENTIAL OILS SAFETY

It is important to enjoy the benefits of essential oils while using them safely and responsibly. This includes never using them undiluted, performing a skin patch test prior to use, being knowledgeable about the sun's effects after use, and sourcing them from an ethical brand known for quality and purity.

External use only

As with all other New Directions Aromatics products, essential oils are for external use only. Essential oils must never be used near the eyes, inner nose, and ears, or on any other particularly sensitive areas of skin. It is imperative to consult a medical practitioner before using these oils for therapeutic purposes.

Phototoxicity

Avoid sun exposure for a minimum of 12 hours after topically applying Bergamot Essential Oil, Grapefruit Essential Oil, Lemon Essential Oil, and any other phototoxic oils.

Pregnancy and other health conditions

Pregnant and nursing women are especially advised not to use essential oils without the medical advice of a physician.

Those with the following health conditions are especially recommended to consult the advice of a physician: cancer, heart-related ailments, skin disorders or allergies, hormone-related ailments, or epilepsy.

Individuals that are taking prescription drugs, undergoing major surgery, or who are at a greater risk of experiencing strokes, heart attacks, or atherosclerosis are also advised to seek medical consultation prior to use.

Children and safety

These oils should always be stored in an area that is inaccessible to children, especially those under the age of seven.

How to conduct a skin patch test

Prior to using any essential oil, a skin test is recommended. This can be done by diluting 1 drop of the essential oil in 4 drops of carrier oil and applying a dime-size amount of this blend to a small area of non-sensitive skin.

Essential Oil side effects

Potential side effects of essential oils include redness, rash, hives, burning, bleeding disorders, decreased speed of healing, low blood pressure, dizziness, headache, nausea, diarrhea, convulsions, and rapid heartbeat. In the event of an allergic reaction, discontinue use of the products and see a doctor, pharmacist, or allergist immediately for a health assessment and appropriate remedial action. To prevent side effects, consult with a medical professional prior to use.