“THE OIL OF YOUTH” – COSMETIC & THERAPEUTIC USES OF ROSEHIP OIL

IN ESSENCE...

• Rosehips are the tiny, reddish-orange, edible, spherical fruits that remain on a Rose bush after Roses have bloomed, lost their petals, and died.


• Rosehip Oil's benefits are largely associated with medicinal and cosmetic purposes, often being regarded as the "Oil of Youth".


• Rosehip Carrier Oil is classified as a "dry oil," due to its thin consistency, which allows it to be easily absorbed without leaving an oily residue on the skin's surface.


• Rosehip Carrier Oil's skincare benefits include brightening properties that help restore skin's natural color and tone while lightening any unwanted dark blemishes.


• Rosehip Oil effectively reduces the appearance of scars, accelerates skin regeneration, facilitates the healing of wounds and burns, and soothes skin dryness and inflammation.

HISTORY OF ROSEHIP OIL

The petals of a Rose are the parts most commonly known for yielding the infusions, hydrosols, and essential oils used in cosmetics for beauty benefits, but its seed pods – also known as its “hips” or sometimes as “Rose Haw” and “Rose Hep” – yield a cold-pressed carrier oil that has equal potency in health benefits. Rosehips are the tiny, reddish-orange, edible, spherical fruits that remain on a Rose bush after the Roses have bloomed, lost their petals, and died.

For their tangy flavour, Rosehips traditionally found popular use in culinary applications, being used both fresh and dry in both sweet and savory dishes as well as in herbal teas. Medicinal preparations made of Rosehips were used by Ancient Chinese doctors and early Native Americans to treat stomach weakness, muscle cramps, and to ease joint stiffness and pain. During World War II, Rosehips were used as a replacement for citrus fruits, as the levels of the antioxidant Vitamin C in citrus fruits were not as high as the levels found in Rosehips. In Britain during wartime, Rosehip Seed Oil was made into a syrup to protect against and provide relief from indigestion, diarrhea, infection, stomach and menstrual cramps, and nausea. *NDA carrier oils are intended for external use only.

In the 1980s, wide-ranging scientific studies discovered that the healing properties of Rosehip Oil would be beneficial for all skin types, especially sensitive types and types with skin conditions. Evidence suggested that the oil was able to effectively reduce the appearance of scars, namely surgical scars, when applied to the affected areas twice a day. The high level of unsaturated fatty acids in Rosehip Carrier Oil prevents it from leaving a greasy residue on the skin, thus categorizing it as a “dry oil” that absorbs into the skin quickly and easily.

Rosehip Oil can be pressed from the seeds of the Rosa canina variety that is found around the world in regions including South Africa and Europe; however, traditionally, it has been pressed from the seeds of the Rosa rubiginosa and Rosa moschata varieties found in the southern Andes. Used for more than 2000 years, especially by the women of Mayan, Egyptian, and Native American communities as well as by the Andean Indians of Chile, Rosehip Oil has been used largely in medicinal and cosmetic applications, often being regarded as the “Oil of Youth.”

BENEFITS OF ROSEHIP SEED OIL

Due to its rich fatty acid profile and "dry oil" consistency, Rosehip Seed Oil is especially beneficial for replenishing and maintaining moisture in the skin and hair without feeling greasy. Rosehip is even believed to reduce the appearance of acne scars.

The main chemical constituents of Rosehip Carrier Oil are: Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, and Stearic Acid.

LINOLEIC ACIDS (OMEGA 6) are known to:

• Moisturize hair and promote its growth
• Facilitate wound healing
• Be an effective emulsifier in the formulation of soaps and quick-drying oils
• Exhibit anti-inflammatory properties
• Soothe acne and reduce chances of future outbreaks
• Promote moisture retention in skin and hair
• Make oils feel thinner in consistency when used in an oil blend, thus being beneficial for use on acne-prone skin

ALPHA-LINOLENIC ACID (OMEGA-3) is known to:

• Lessen inflammation
• Control blood clotting on the skin
• Soothe joint pain and ease stiffness to improve flexibility

OLEIC ACIDS (OMEGA 9) are known to:

• Maintain the softness, suppleness, and radiance of skin and hair
• Stimulate the growth of thicker, longer, and stronger hair
• Reduce the appearance of aging, such as premature wrinkles and fine lines
• Eliminate dandruff and thereby support hair growth
• Boost immunity
• Exhibit antioxidant properties
• Prevent joint inflammation, stiffness, and pain

PALMITIC ACID is known to:

• Have emollient properties
• Soften hair without leaving a greasy or sticky residue
• Be the most common saturated fatty acid

STEARIC ACID is known to:

• Have cleansing properties that purge dirt, sweat, and excess sebum from hair and skin
• Be an ideal emulsifying agent that binds water and oil
• Help products remain potent when stored for long periods of time
• Condition and protect hair from damage without diminishing luster or making it feel heavy
• Have exceptional cleansing properties
• Soften skin

Rosehip Oil Skin Benefits

Used topically, Rosehip Carrier Oil is suitable for all skin types, including skin that is sensitive, dry, oily, scarred, or damaged by UV radiation. Skin types that are oily or acne-prone will benefit more from using it sparingly, as it may aggravate such skin conditions. Rosehip Carrier Oil is reputed for its healing and anti-aging properties and is thus often featured in natural products for mature skin. It works to accelerate skin regeneration and to reduce the appearance of minor skin conditions such as those involving enlarged pores or age spots, thereby restoring, and maintaining a youthful appearance. It effectively soothes skin afflicted by dryness, eczema, hyper-pigmentation, and psoriasis. This lightweight, easily absorbed oil does not leave an oily residue on the skin's surface. It restores elasticity to skin with wrinkles and stretch marks, minimizing the appearance of both. This "Oil of Youth" replenishes skin's moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin that prevents its dehydration. Applied to areas with rough skin such as knees, elbows, and calloused heels, Rosehip Carrier Oil softens skin to restore its suppleness.

Due to its brightening properties, Rosehip Seed Oil is great for restoring the skin's natural color and tone while lightening any unwanted dark blemishes caused by damage from overexposure to the sun, age spots, acne scars, or wounds. Its astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties are known to facilitate the healing of wounds and burns by tightening the skin. This makes it effective in firming skin that sags from rapid weight loss such as after childbirth. Rosehip Carrier Oil strengthens not only cells and tissue, but also brittle nails with dry cuticles.

Rosehip Carrier Oil for Hair

Used in hair, Rosehip Oil's fatty acids reduce the itchiness characteristic of a dry scalp. The oil instantly restores hair's shine by eliminating dandruff without leaving a greasy residue on the scalp, making it easy to use directly on the scalp without the worry of an oily look and feel. Rich in vitamins, Rosehip Carrier Oil gives hair resilience, adding silkiness, volume, and bounce to strands that are dull and limp.

Rosehip Carrier Oil for Health and Wellness

Used medicinally, Rosehip Carrier Oil works to repair skin damage by restoring its elasticity and collagen, giving the skin a rejuvenated look and feel. When applied to skin that has been damaged and discolored by the sun, Rosehip Oil's essential fatty acids and antioxidant properties enhance the tone and texture of skin by moisturizing and soothing redness and irritation. The emollience of Rosehip Seed Oil enhances skin's resilience and penetrability, encouraging it to repair itself and minimizing scarring as well as acne breakouts. Its Vitamin C content gives Rosehip Oil the ability to strengthen bones and muscles while boosting immunity. It does this by helping to prevent infection and by aiding the body in the appropriate absorption of iron.

As illustrated, Rosehip Carrier Oil is reputed to have many therapeutic properties. The following highlights its many benefits and the kinds of activity it is believed to show:

• COSMETIC: Antioxidant, Regenerative, Anti-Inflammatory, Astringent, Hydrating, Firming, Smoothing.
• MEDICINAL: Antioxidant, Regenerative, Anti-Inflammatory, Astringent.

CULTIVATING AND HARVESTING QUALITY ROSEHIP OIL

Rosehip Carrier Oil comes from the seeds of specific varieties of Rose, including Rosa Canina, Rosa Rubiginosa, Rosa Eglanteria, and Rosa Moschata. Rose bushes thrive in ample sunlight but prefer not to be in direct sunlight on a hot day. They are cultivated predominantly in Chile and South Africa, requiring loose but moist soils with adequate drainage and a pH level between 6.5 and 7.0.

In spring, Rose plants begin to develop buds that are surrounded by green sepals that resemble leaves. When the sepals open, they expose soft, brightly-colored petals that bloom into the fully-developed, sweet-smelling flowers famously known to be Roses. Wild Roses have 5 petals while those of the garden variety have several rows of petals.

From late summer to autumn, after the flowers have been successfully pollinated by insects and other pollinating creatures, the fertilized flowers begin to die and the petals fall off. In order to protect the growing Rose seeds, the flower’s base continues to develop, producing a reddish-orange flesh known as the Rosehips. Sometimes referred to as the “fruit” of the Rose, Rosehips contain Rose seeds; however, Rosehips are not produced by most modern Roses.

Rosehips are usually left on the Rose bushes until after the first frost, as this chilling period is required to soften them and to allow them to become bright red in color. Depending on the species, Rosehips range in color from red-orange to violet or black, bearing a close resemblance to berries or small crabapples. When the seeds inside this round, fleshy fruit are not being dispersed by birds and other animals and growing into new Rose bushes, they are gathered to produce Rosehip Carrier Oil. During the harvest, Rosehips have remaining blooms trimmed off before they are clipped off the bush as closely as possible to their bases.

HOW IS ROSEHIP OIL EXTRACTED?

To produce cold-pressed Rosehip Carrier Oil, the Rosehips that have been freshly pruned from the Rose bushes have any remaining blooms, leaves, and stems removed. They are washed then dried, usually by being placed in a heated room. The Rosehips are cooked in a pot with water until the seeds float to the water’s surface. In a sieving process, seeds are removed from the resultant mash, which is commonly used to make jam or syrup. Seeds are then dried.

To ensure that they retain their potent antioxidants and essential fatty acids, the seeds are cold-pressed. If heat is applied in the process, it is in a low temperature range that is controlled to a maximum of 30 ᵒC (90 ᵒF) to prevent the loss of essential compounds caused by high temperatures.

The color of the resulting Rosehip Carrier Oil can indicate its quality. Its concentration of essential fatty acids and beta-Carotene can also cause a significant variation in color. Pure, cold-pressed Rosehip Carrier Oil of a high quality is a deep gold or a reddish-orange in color. It should never be darker than brown. After being extracted, Refined Rosehip Carrier Oil is bleached to a light-yellow color and deodorized to a subtle woody smell. Contrary to popular expectation, Rosehip Carrier Oil does not have the fragrance of Roses, as it is not derived from Rose petals.

1 ounce of Rosehip Carrier Oil is said to require 60,000 blooms. It is also possible to produce Rosehip Oil by using a food grade solvent to process the hips in this method that results in an “Absolute.”

USES OF ROSEHIP OIL

Rosehip Carrier Oil is great on its own or as a natural ingredient in oils, gels, lotions, creams, soaps, serums, and shampoos.

Used topically, Rosehip Oil may be applied directly to the skin right out of the bottle to promote healthy, radiant, firm, youthful skin. To create a natural exfoliating scrub for the face and body, blend Rosehip Carrier Oil with a couple of drops of a preferred essential oil as well as some sugar. Apply this mixture to skin with the fingertips, rubbing in a gentle, circular motion, then rinse it off with warm water. For a gentle facial moisturizer, massage no more than 3 drops of Rosehip Oil to a freshly cleansed face. This can be applied once in the morning and once at night to keep skin hydrated and supple. Alternatively, up to 2 drops of Rosehip Carrier Oil can be added to a usual skin moisturizer. In hot weather, Rosehip Oil can be diluted with water inside a spray bottle and spritzed onto the skin for a refreshing feeling of hydration and to lock in moisture.

For those with sensitive skin prone to acne, Rosehip Carrier Oil should be used sparingly in small amounts and should be diluted with other carrier oils and essential oils that are reputed to be beneficial for this skin type. Some suggestions include Tea Tree, Lavender, Lemon, Geranium, Patchouli, and Rosemary. For a facial blend to soothe and reduce acne, blend Rosehip Carrier Oil with 1 Tbsp of Jojoba Carrier Oil, 3 drops of Frankincense Essential Oil, 3 drops of Lavender Essential Oil, and 3 drops of Tea Tree Essential Oil. Blend all the oils together in a small, dark glass bottle and shake it gently to mix them thoroughly. No more than 3 drops of this oil blend can be gently massaged into skin to moisturize and to reduce acne blemishes, scars, or stretch marks. Rosehip Carrier Oil makes an effective makeup remover as well, especially for eye makeup. To cleanse skin of makeup such as eyeliner, eyeshadow, and mascara, pour a few drops of the oil onto a cotton bud and gently wipe it across the eyelids and lashes. Any oil that remains on the skin will work to reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Rosehip Oil can be applied directly to the scalp and left on for an hour before washing it out. This will hydrate dry hair while soothing, eliminating, and preventing dandruff. For a conditioning hair treatment, Rosehip Oil can either be added to a preferred natural shampoo, rubbed onto the scalp before showering, or applied to hair and left on overnight. To restore the luster to dull hair and to repair damaged strands, Rosehip Oil can be combined with Coconut Carrier Oil before being applied to the hair and scalp. These oils can also be gently heated in a bowl before being massaged for 10 minutes into natural, permed, or colored hair. The result will be hair that feels softer, smoother, and stronger.

Used on nails, Rosehip Carrier Oil hydrates and strengthens dryness and brittleness. It can be massaged directly onto nails using fingertips or cotton swabs and allowed to dry. This treatment is ideal for use just before bed and will restore nail health, especially if applied every night for at least one week.

Used in a massage, Rosehip Oil’s thin consistency allows it to be absorbed into skin faster than many other oils and it will not clog pores. To prevent and fade blemishes, to minimize the appearance of stretch marks, to relieve sunburn and inflammation, and to balance the production of collagen, 2-3 drops of Rosehip Oil can be massaged into the affected area daily for 2-3 months or until there are visible results. Alternatively, Rosehip Oil can be blended with essential oils that are known to diminish the appearance of unwanted dark spots, such as Tea Tree Essential Oil or Lemon Essential Oil. For an aromatherapy massage, Rosehip Oil can be enhanced by blending it with Peppermint Essential Oil, Lavender Essential Oil, Chamomile Essential Oil, or Frankincense Essential Oil.

A GUIDE TO ROSEHIP OIL VARIETIES & THEIR BENEFITS

CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR ROSEHIP OIL

As with all other New Directions Aromatics products, carrier oils are for external use only. Rosehip Carrier Oil should not be ingested and should not be stored within the reach of children, in case of accidental ingestion. As with all other oils, a patch test should be conducted on the inner arm or other generally insensitive area of skin, using a dime size amount of Rosehip Oil to check for sensitivities. An absence of an allergic response within 48 hours indicates that the oil is safe to use. Individuals with Diabetes, Anemia, kidney stones, or very sensitive skin are at a higher risk of developing an allergy to Rosehip Oil and should avoid its use.

Potentially severe side effects of using Rosehip Carrier Oil may include anaphylaxis, chest discomfort, congestion, dizziness, difficulty breathing, hives, itchy and watery eyes, rash, rapid heartrate, and wheezing. The slightly fishy aroma of some Rosehip Oils may induce vomiting in pregnant women. In the event of an allergic reaction, discontinue use of the product and see a doctor, pharmacist, or allergist immediately for a health assessment and appropriate remedial action.

Individuals may find that using the oil causes acne while those with acne-prone skin may experience an increase in acne. Individuals taking medication for blood clotting may experience a drug interaction. The Vitamin C content of Rosehip Oil may negatively impact the control of diabetes, increase the risk of developing kidney stones, and affect iron absorption in the body. To prevent these side effects, consult with a medical professional prior to use, and stop using the oil two weeks before a surgery, as Rosehips in any form may increase the risk of bleeding.